Retailer Anthropologie denies Black shoppers were profiled with secret codename

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TORONTO — Boho-chic lifestyle retailer Anthropologie denied accusations it racially profiled customers by assigning codenames to Black shoppers so employees could watch them more closely.

Earlier this week, Diet Prada, an Instagram account known for calling out bad or discriminatory practices within the fashion industry, reported that multiple employees from stores across the U.S. and Canada said they were told to watch Black shoppers and that the codename “Nick” was used.

“Regarding allegations of racial profiling, we have never and will never have a code word based on a customer’s race or ethnicity, Our company has a zero-tolerance policy regarding discrimination or racial profiling in any form,” the clothing and home furnishing store wrote in an Instagram post on Wednesday.

“We support and stand with the Black community. We are listening, learning, and reflecting on how we, as a brand, can improve diversity and combat racism.”

The accusations, which came from users who said they worked at stores in California, Chicago, Seattle, New York City, and Canada, first appeared in the comments section of an Anthropologie post that called for equity and quoted Black author Maya Angelou.

“With any mention of the #BlackLivesMatter movement absent, Angelou’s words could be interpreted more along the lines of ‘All lives matter’, lest Anthro offend their primary target audience,” Diet Prada’s post wrote. Instagram users also noted the omission. The company directly addressed Black Lives Matter in a post several days later.

Comments in Diet Prada’s own post also made similar accusations, including users who said they were employees of other brands under the same company. Free People and Urban Outfitters are also owned by parent company UBRN.

“When I worked at UO my boss would constantly profile Black customers & make them uncomfortable. Our code names for ‘customers caught stealing’ were Nick & Nicole,” wrote one poster.

“Not only Anthropologie but every company in the family … I work for Urban Outfitters it’s the same way here,” wrote another user.

Urban Outfitters could not be immediately reached for comment.

Diet Prada also called out the company’s commitment to workforce diversity after a queer Black influencer said they were asked to potentially take part in a Pride campaign without pay, and instead was offered an outfit.

“It’s worth mentioning that it’s not true that they do not pay ‘micro-influencers.’ I know (non-Black) influencers with similar followings and engagement to theirs that have worked with Anthro on paid social campaigns,” fashion writer Nicolette Mason said in the comments.

Anthropology also addressed these claims, saying that it compensated all partners with whom it contracted services.

“In the case of influencers, our methods of compensation include product, financial payment, or a combination of both,” the post said.

Diet Prada noted in its post that these types of racial codenames have been used by other companies according to racial discrimination lawsuits.

Moschino allegedly used “Serena” in reference to tennis star Serena Williams. Zara was accused of using the term “special order” in a survey of 251 employees in New York City. Versace was sued by a former employee who accused his manager of using “D410”  - the company’s merchandise colour code for black shirts - to relay a message that a Black customer had entered the store.

With companies issuing statements on equity in support of the anti-Black racism protests around the world, many former employees have come forward accusing businesses of failing to live up to their statements.

Complaints of racial discrimination have also been leveled against other fashion retailers, including Reformation -- a company whose “brand” is built on being responsible and ethical. Former employees alleged incidents of mistreatment, disparities in workplace conditions, and being overlooked for advancement because they were Black. The company’s founder, Yael Aflalo, who apologized earlier this week for her failure on Instagram, stepped down as CEO on Friday, according to a statement by Aflalo.