‘She’s a real Scorpio’: Gen Z’s love for astrology is showing up in their jewellery

A model wears a design from the Milamore zodiac collection (left); both models wear a piece from the Van Cleef & Arpels collection (centre and right). (Milamore/Van Cleef & Arpels via CNN Newsource)

Gemini? Scorpio? Sagittarius? What is your moon sign? And your sun? These are not, it seems, trivial questions for Gen Z. For a growing number, an astrological profile has become a way to express individuality in a generation that places particular value on self-definition.

“It has become increasingly common for (social media) users to reference their sign — Aries, Capricorn and the like — in their bios and content, allowing it to shape perception and a simple, powerful way to define oneself,” said Laurent François, a creative consultant and author of the book and Substack “Alive in Social Media.”

Astrology has become “a significant part of digital culture,” he added, pointing to the millions of screenshots users shared from the horoscope app Co-Star and the rise of TikTok’s #witchtok community, which has generated more than 6 million videos exploring spirituality, astrology and mysticism.

And, as is often the case, trends in the digital world intertwine with the physical one. In this instance: a zodiac-themed jewellery revival.

Luxury Parisian jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels may be best known for its signature Alhambra motif of a four-leaf clover, but it has also increasingly built a devoted following for Zodiaque: a collection of zodiac-themed medals, pendants and bracelets that interpret the twelve astrological signs. In what is perhaps a testament to their growing popularity, it’s now being redesigned and relaunched this year at a more accessible price point in a bid to attract a new generation of fans.

The house first began sketching zodiac symbols as early as 1906, before unveiling a fully-fledged astrological collection in the 1950s — a line that reached peak popularity in the 1970s. A first relaunch in 2021, featuring new versions set with semi-precious stones such as malachite, turquoise and obsidian and priced at around £20,900 (US$23,500), proved so successful that five years later it prompted the maison to broaden the offering once again. The latest iteration features the designs on yellow- and white-gold medallions, available as bracelets and necklaces and styled on both men and women, with prices starting from £2,290 ($2,740).

The launch underscores the growing appeal of zodiac motifs in jewellery. Astrological, zodiac and celestial pieces are among the strongest-performing designs of the fine jewellery category at luxury retailer Mytheresa, according to its chief buying and group fashion ventures officer Tiffany Hsu. And fine jewellery is currently growing on the platform at triple-digit rates, said Hsu, attributing the momentum to the intimacy and styling versatility of such pieces. They “allow customers to express themselves, while still maintaining a classic, sophisticated look,” she said.

Dominic Jones, creative director of sustainable luxury jewellery brand 886 by Britain’s Royal Mint, has seen similar success. The jewellery brand’s Zodiac collection, launched in 2024, quickly became its second bestselling line after the coin-inspired Tutamen collection. Similarly, at the French jewellery house Goossens, zodiac symbols incorporated into its round, organic-shaped Astro collection, launched in 2020, ranks among its top five designs across Europe and Asia.

A resurgence among Gen Z and Millennials

The growing popularity of zodiac jewellery reflects younger generations’, and particularly Gen Z’s, broader interest in astrology and symbolism, as François suggests. Likewise, Millennial and Gen Z jewellery designers have embraced the shift and are expanding their offer of astrology-themed jewels.

Having grown up in Japan with Spanish-Filipino heritage, George Inaki, founder of the New York-based jewellery brand Milamore, was familiar with horoscopes and fortune tellers and their growing influence on his Gen Z-generation, yet was nonetheless struck by the prominence of astrology in the West.

“When I moved to the United States, people would often ask for my zodiac sign or make comments such as, ‘No wonder he’s a Libra,’ or ‘she’s a real Scorpio,’” he said. Those conversations prompted him to incorporate zodiac themes shortly after launching the brand in 2019.

While Milamore’s core business is its signature Kintsugi collection — inspired by the Japanese art of repairing broken ceramics with gold — zodiac pieces have also proved popular, particularly among certain signs, according to Inaki. “It’s based on personality; it’s not that all twelve signs sell equally, but that certain characters are more inclined toward astrology,” he said, citing Pisces, Virgo, Gemini, Libra and Scorpio clients as being more susceptible.

Global symbolism and inspiration

Tania Nawbar and Dima Nawbar, creative directors of L’Atelier Nawbar, a fourth-generation jewellery company in Beirut, note that growing interest in the zodiac isn’t only coming from the West. “We also see strong interest across the Middle East and Asia,” they told CNN. “In Lebanon and across the Arab world, symbolism and zodiac signs are deeply embedded in everyday culture, so people naturally feel close to these motifs as expressions of identity, protection and continuity across generations.” The symbolism in their designs has expanded beyond the horoscope and include Ayatul Kursi (The Throne Verse from the Quran), a Virgin Mary ring, pomegranate motifs for prosperity, Hamsa hands for protection, the evil eye to ward off negativity, and the elephant as a symbol of good fortune.

In India, astrology is closely intertwined with local deities and spiritual practice. The Indian designer Sabyasachi’s high jewellery collection, for example, features bespoke pieces such as the Arya Ring. Crafted in 18k gold and featuring brilliant-cut diamonds and nine multicolored gems, it’s inspired by the Navaratna — meaning “nine gems” in Sanskrit, each believed to have powers in Vedic astrology.

In Vedic astrology, stones are worn for their energetic connection to the wearer rather than as symbols alone — a philosophy the London-based jeweler Karina Choudhrie has incorporated into her own creations. Both the Reflection’s Locket and the Message in a Bottle sautoir are adorned with a ruby or diamond set on both sides, allowing a gemstone to always touch the skin and rest close to the heart, while the outer face remains visible to the world.

Meanwhile Christine Cheng, founder of the US-based antique jewellery dealer Evocatrice, has also seen a “growing demand from clients for pieces inspired by both Western and Chinese horoscopes” – chosen for how closely they reflect their personality. As last year’s Chinese zodiac, the Snake, sparked a craze among collectors, now Cheng has been busy sourcing pieces featuring the Fire Horse, this year’s Chinese zodiac sign.

For Cheng, the revival of zodiac-themed jewellery speaks not only to self-expression, spirituality, and identity, but also to a desire for a personal emblem of distinction. “Not everyone has a family crest,” she said, “but everyone has a birthday — and therefore a zodiac sign.”

By Milena Lazazzera, CNN