The EU banned some gel nail polish. Here’s why it’s legal in Canada

A person with red manicure (Pexels)

A key ingredient commonly used in gel manicures has been banned in the European Union, but remains legal in Canada, raising questions about how regulators weigh cosmetic safety.

The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), helps gel polish harden under ultraviolet (UV) or LED light and is responsible for the glossy finish popular with salon clients.

As of Sept. 1, it is no longer permitted in nail products sold in the EU following its classification as a substance that may be a “reproductive toxicant.”

Canada, however, has not taken the same step.

The new restrictions in Europe do not mean gel polish itself is prohibited; only products containing TPO.

According to neuroscientist Samantha Yammine, the difference comes down to how regulators interpret risk.

“(The EU) takes a hazard-based approach, so as soon as there’s any data at all, even in animals, at unrealistic levels, if it shows that it could be cancerous, causing patients reproductive issues, it will be an immediate ban,” Yammine told CTV’s Your Morning Thursday.

In contrast, Yammine said Health Canada applies a risk-based assessment. That means regulators consider whether consumers are realistically exposed to the substance in harmful amounts.

“What’s the realistic risk? How much is getting on your skin and how much of that is absorbed?” Yammine explained, which may be the questions Health Canada will ask in its assessment.

While this means TPO is still allowed in Canada — for now — she noted that Health Canada could revisit the decision.

“We’ll see if in a year or so, they may follow suit, but as of now, they haven’t,” Yammine said.

In an email to CTVNews.ca, Health Canada said it has not currently “identified a risk for TPO in nail products.”

“Health Canada is carefully reviewing this information to determine whether similar measures are necessary in Canada,” the statement said.

The evidence underpinning the EU’s decision comes largely from animal studies. In one, rats given very high oral doses of TPO experienced reproductive effects.

Yammine said the big question is: what‘s the real risk to humans?

“How do those data in rats translate to humans getting lower levels just on their nail, where you don’t typically absorb ingredients,” she said.

What consumers can do

Gel nail polishes differ from regular nail polishes, because gel products generally last longer, are harder in texture and dry quicker after a manicure or pedicure.

Yammine said there are steps to reduce potential risks, like leaving gel application to professionals who are trained to avoid spilling uncured polish on the skin.

She also recommended limiting skin contact with the liquid form of gel polish, since hardened polish is considered less concerning and asking about alternatives.

For those who may be at an occupational risk, Yammine said nail technicians often wear gloves to avoid skin contact.

According to the European Commission, products containing TPO should no longer be sold, supplied or used. Any products with TPO still in stock should be withdrawn from the market, and new products containing TPO cannot be placed on the market.